First pick a suitable spot. A place that may get sanding dust, paint splatters or chemicals from your work and a place that is level from side to side. After the site is chosen, check local ordinances to be certain the authorities wont make you tear down your efforts.
Lay out your plans and begin by setting up a bow stack of cinder blocks. The lumber used for the crossmember is two 4 X 6 beams. Raise the nose wheel of the trailer with the trailer jack almost as far as it will go and build the front brace under the raised bow. Note that the bow cinder blocks are spread wide to allow the trailer to be removed in a later step. Lower the bow until the weight is supported by the crossmember and move to the stern. The same size crossmember are used in the stern and the upright 4 X 6 supports are cut to fit. Add small wood shims to correct any side to side deviations and build the rear supports. The next step will require the use of at least two and preferably four, floor jacks or the more common and less expensive bottle jacks. Begin at the stern and raise the stern crossmember to the desired final height and place the necessary cinder blocks or wood blocks under the rear crossmember.
With the stern secure, begin to raise the bow crossmember to the level of the rear and slide the trailer out from under the boat. Build the bow stack the same as you did the stern until you are satisfied the assembly is secure and safe. If it is best to replace the wide bow stack (trailer removal width) with a narrower stack to help keep the area clear, this is the time to change over.
Photos by Kevin Pierce - Story by Bill Lamica
Lay out your plans and begin by setting up a bow stack of cinder blocks. The lumber used for the crossmember is two 4 X 6 beams. Raise the nose wheel of the trailer with the trailer jack almost as far as it will go and build the front brace under the raised bow. Note that the bow cinder blocks are spread wide to allow the trailer to be removed in a later step. Lower the bow until the weight is supported by the crossmember and move to the stern. The same size crossmember are used in the stern and the upright 4 X 6 supports are cut to fit. Add small wood shims to correct any side to side deviations and build the rear supports. The next step will require the use of at least two and preferably four, floor jacks or the more common and less expensive bottle jacks. Begin at the stern and raise the stern crossmember to the desired final height and place the necessary cinder blocks or wood blocks under the rear crossmember.
With the stern secure, begin to raise the bow crossmember to the level of the rear and slide the trailer out from under the boat. Build the bow stack the same as you did the stern until you are satisfied the assembly is secure and safe. If it is best to replace the wide bow stack (trailer removal width) with a narrower stack to help keep the area clear, this is the time to change over.
Photos by Kevin Pierce - Story by Bill Lamica
Precision 18
Driveway Boat Lifting
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The repair, modification and/or maintenance projects on this page are provided to show how one person accomplished a given task. Some projects are hazardous, dangerous and expensive and should be attempted only by professionals.. No warranty of success is included nor implied with any of these projects. The Webmaster, contributors and authors, will not accept, nor be held responsible as a result of any use of the material presented.
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